It was an experience that I will never forget and one I think my soul desperately needed.

To put my stay in perspective, I walked through Baek In-Jae House, a property that has been converted to a museum. The owner fought for Korean independence during the Japanese colonial era and was also a doctor. Converted is a loose term. His home has more or less been preserved so that those of us still curious about daily life of days gone could easily be teleported back in time. It was more than fantasy; it was everyday life. Take Line 3 to Anguk Station and come out of exit 2. Cross the road and go straight for about 8 minutes. The house is tucked away on a small road to your left, but there are plenty of signs to guide you along.

There are no entry fees or tour guides to greet you. Just an expansive house for you to discover on your own. The experience is priceless.

Hanok buildings date back to the Joseon Dynasty, a time of royalty. I wanted to see the royal side of this era so I headed to the National Palace Museum of Korea.

But I thought back to my humble hanok. I wanted to know what the daily life was like for average people who may have lived there.

So I asked a clerk at the entrance to the National Palace Museum, “Where is the National Folk Museum?” She smiled. “You won’t find that here. You have to go behind the palace for that.”It was an 8 minute walk past Gyeonbokgung’s gates and beautiful walls.

I instantly understood history. The commoner was behind royalty. But no less interesting.

A day of walking through history can leave you famished. If you get hungry, there are so many choices. You’ll probably get overwhelmed by all the food signage along the main road. Korean ginseng chicken stew is a great traditional dish and there are some really famous places to get it nearby. It’s healthy, filling, and still light enough to leave room for some local street snacks and traditional teas. A short walk away is Insa-dong (right out of Anguk Station exit 6, turn left) with its busy souvenir shops and tea houses. Grab a hot cup of traditional tea and something to help you remember your trip to the past.

YeonWoo House is dark at night. No glowing busy streets or neighboring buildings. The enclosed courtyard is just that: enclosing. Enveloping. Exclusive. I had to venture outside to turn on the boiler, and the reality of history cam rushing in. I imagined servants bustling to keep the floors clean or empty pots from the kitchen. I imagined the courtyard stirring by day and resting by night, under a bright moon.

Breakfast is more modern. There are cups of instant ramyeon, fresh eggs, milk, cheese, and bread all available for you to prepare at your leisure. It’s like waking up in your own home. There is a coffee machine with beans beside it if you’d like. There are instructions on how to turn on the gas range, or use the cereal dispenser. There is a quant table for four to dine with other guests like a family. I even ran into the son of the host on the street after check-in, a 15 minute process including an elaborate tour of the facilities. He was buying bananas and when I asked why, he exclaimed “It’s for you!” I gladly added one to my cereal the next morning.