Hanulmadang - outdoor recreation area in Asia Culture Center complex

I recently watched a movie that sparked my interest in revisiting Gwangju. "A Taxi Driver” (택시운전사) was released in 2017 and tells the story of a taxi driver who unintentionally gets involved in events that lead to the May 18th Democratic Movement. Gwangju and its people played an important role in democratizing South Korea. Expecting to learn more and have a good time, I prepared my backpack and camera, and was happy to travel once again and explore beautiful Korea.

Gwangju is the sixth largest city in South Korea and has a very distinctive identity. Gwangju is revolutionary. It's considered to be the birthplace of Korean democracy. The people of Gwangju are serious when it comes to their rights. They proved it during the 1929 nationwide uprising against Imperial Japan, and then in 1980, leading the outcry for democracy one more time. Gwangju is artistic. The city has a vibrant art scene, with the Asia Culture Center being home to many art related events, including Gwangju Biennale.

The charming Art Street and the village of Yangrim-dong are home to many talented local artists. Gwangju has lots of tasty food. There's an entire street dedicated to tteokgalbi .

At first glance, Gwangju is not full of tourist attractions. At least, my first trip felt like that. If you open up the tourist guide, you will definitely find some suggestions. However, the guide was not personalized enough, so I stopped by the Tourist Center at Gwangju Bus Terminal to ask for recommendations. I got there at 12:00 PM, which is considered the official lunchtime in Korea. The ladies were locking the door and going on their well-deserved lunch break. Needless to say, they unlocked the door for me and spent 20 minutes giving me super-detailed instructions on how to organize my day and what to see. Always trust a local's advice because they know their city.

Asia Culture Center - Art installation and outdoor seating area

First stop: exploring Gwangju’s Asia Culture Center (ACC), a.k.a. “The Dongdaemun Design Plaza of Gwangju.” ACC is an impressive multipurpose building, with vast indoor and outdoor areas designed to foster the cultural exchange between Asian countries and serve as an art and innovation center. The complex is built mostly underground, so all that’s visible is a multifunctional public space. One of the coolest indoor spaces is a children’s experience center, which might be the biggest of its kind in Korea.

Former Main Building of Jeollanam-do Government Office now turned into a museum, front view from square

Next to ACC is the Former Main Building of Jeollanam-do Government Office. It was used as the headquarters for the citizen protestors of the May 18 Democratic Movement. This building is important, as many citizens lost their lives there. That is a sad part of Gwangju history, but eventually it brought democracy and prosperity to the whole country.

02

Gwangju Art Street, Sajik Observatory and Park

Moon Garden  -  interior design brings spring to the room

Cross the main street and you will come across Gwangju Art Street. This cute area has lots of small craft workshops, art galleries, and coffee shops.

discover small workshops and art galleries

It was already late afternoon when I arrived, so it was the perfect time to have something sweet with a cup of hot coffee. I found an amazing coffee shop with an atmosphere that perfectly reflects its location for my snack.

Sajik Tower - Drone view of the tower and Sajik Park

What’s a Korean town without an observatory on a hill? The oval-shaped Sajik Observatory Park grabbed my attention, and I had to climb up and explore. The sun was setting,  so I was even more excited to see the city from above. The park encompassing the observatory turned out not to be very crowded at that time of the season. It was perfect for taking some drone photos before going up to the observatory.

Gwangju Tteokgalbi with delicious bone soup and side dishes

My Gwangju exploration mission would not be fulfilled without finding something delicious for dinner. It was quite a journey of over 30 min by metro, but it was definitely worth the trip. Songjeong Tteokgalbi Street is famous for its great food and service. The restaurant I picked offered a super delicious meal that came with so many banchan, or side dishes, that it was unbelievable. Don’t go alone though, as it’s impossible to finish the meal on your own.

That’s how my super exciting day in Gwangju ended. My bed felt even more comfortable than when I tried it out in the morning. See you soon, Gwangju.

Gwangju Art Street

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Sajik Observatory and Park

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03

Traveler's Room :
Byeolbam

My choice for accommodation was a cozy rental house close to Gwangju Station. The area around Gwangju Station is an interesting mixture of old and new. On one side of the street, there was a new, flashy residential complex, and just across from it was a metal workshop. I chose this location so I could experience what the daily life of ordinary people of Gwangju is like.

Outdoor facade with garde

tourist brochures, board games, and books to read

Byeolbam is a family house built in the 80s. Behind the artistic, double-door main entrance, there's a small but very well maintained garden. A couple of steps in and you are in a different setting, out of the hustle and bustle of the street and into the serenity of a private yard. There is a decent-sized veranda with a table and two chairs, perfect for my morning coffee-and-book routine.

The host was very nice and it felt like I was visiting a friend. I like when that happens. She showed me around and helped me get settled in my room. I had a comfy, king size bed with really soft bedding and elegant embroidery.

twin bedroom accommodation arrangement

It felt like I was sleeping at my grandmas' house, which brought back sweet memories from my childhood. With my luggage down and my mind at peace, I had one thing to do before I rushed out to explore: sit on the veranda with a cup of hot coffee to plan the rest of the day. In the living room, facing the veranda, there was a coffee machine, accessible 24/7, and a nice shelf with books, board games, and lots of brochures about Gwangju and the area. What a perfect start to my day of exploring Gwangju.

Hotel Information

Hotel Information - Hotel name, Website, Address, Price, Tel, Check in/out

Hotel name	Byeolbam
Website	http://byulbam.kr
Address	8-6, Gyeongyang-ro 147beon-gil, Buk-gu, Gwangju
Price	40,000 won
Tel	(+82) 10-7197-7228
Check in/out	4 PM / 11 PM

Korea Travel Qrator's Tip

The accommodation offers homemade Korean-style breakfast. It’s a must, and you will also get a chance to chat with other visitors as you all sit at the family table. It’s great experience, even better than any fancy hotel breakfast.

The public transportation is very well organized in Gwangju. Around the accommodation, there are many buses that will bring you to the city tourist attractions in no time. Taxis are also affordable and quicker than other options, as the drivers know the area very well and will make sure to avoid congested streets.

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