Gyeongju is known as "The Golden City" because of its over 1000-year-old history boasting many religious and cultural sites. However, I would like to call it “The Golden City” not only for those reasons, but because of the warm hearts of the people who live there.

Gyeongju was the capital city of Silla for 992 years. Therefore, the history of Gyeongju is also the history of the thousand-year-old Silla Kingdom. Gyeongju still embraces Buddhism, science, and the vibrant ancient culture that blossomed through the artistry of the Silla people. The impeccable series of the remaining historical and cultural sites make this city a true open-air museum.

Having spent all day walking around downtown Gyeongju, I strongly recommend discovering the city on foot or by bicycle, so that you can stop wherever and whenever you please. The city unfolds before your eyes with its’ beautiful and lovely old houses. There are no high-rise buildings here, and many people live in hanoks, traditional Korean houses. Even convenience stores and franchise cafes like Starbucks, are designed in hanok style. Any corner of Gyeongju can be captured so beautifully and uniquely thanks to this design feature.

As mentioned above, Gyeongju can be described as a museum without a roof because of the historical and cultural monuments. As it is a relatively small city, you can go from one destination to another on foot. Let me explain some of the highlights you can see here.

Oreung, the final resting places of four kings and one queen of the Silla Kingdom

I started my sightseeing from Gyeongju Oreung Tombs (경주 오릉). "Oreung" means "five royal tombs". As the name implies, the site includes 5 tombs: the final resting places of four kings and one queen from the Silla Kingdom.

Gyeongju Gyochon Village

A 10-minute walk from Oreung is Gyeongju Gyochon Traditional Village (경주 교촌마을). It is a hanok village that allows visitors a look inside the life of a famous clan in Korea: the Choi Clan. In the village, you can try some Korean traditional games, soap-making, hanbok-wearing, tea-drinking and the like. There is also a famous 40-year-old traditional kimbap restaurant in the village. I was surprised by the long line of people waiting in front of the restaurant.

Sungdeokjeon Shrine

Full view of Woljeonggyo Bridge

One of the most attractive spots in Gyochon Village is Woljeonggyo Bridge. According to historical records, Woljeonggyo Bridge was originally built during the 19th year of King Gyeongdeok, the 35th King of Silla. However, it was mostly destroyed, and all that remained was the stonework of the original bridge. After some thorough research, the bridge was reconstructed into what it looks like today, and is open for you to walk across.

Woljeonggyo Bridge

Cheomseongdae: The oldest surviving astronomical observatory in East Asia

My next stop was Cheomseongdae Observatory. Cheomseongdae is the oldest astronomical observatory in East Asia. The observatory was necessary during the Silla period to aid in agriculture. The number of stones and floors of Cheomseongdae are symbolic of altitude. The digital hall right next to the entrance offers video information in Korean, English, Japanese and Chinese of how Cheomseongdae was built.

An ancient tomb in Daereungwon

Donggung Palace and Wolji at night

Another must-go place in Gyeongju is Daereungwon. As you know, Gyeongju is the city of ancient tombs, and the Daereungwon Tomb Complex is the largest group of tombs. It is a collection of 23 tombs from the Silla period. The area has been turned into a beautiful park where visitors can enjoy a leisurely walk. In the evening, I stopped by Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond, which are famous for their night view. The structure was lit-up in the darkness, illuminating the water below, which really blew my mind. The water reflected the brilliant image of the palace, creating a sparkling and mysterious view.

Five Royal Tombs

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Gyochon Hanok Village

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Woljeonggyo Bridge

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Cheomseongdae Observatory

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Daereungwon Tomb Complex

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Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond

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However, unluckily, it suddenly started raining, and it was so cold that I had to stop my itinerary. It took me about 20 minutes to walk to my homestay. The rain became heavier and heavier, and I did not have an umbrella. So I stopped walking and stood under an awning, waiting for the rain to stop. Suddenly, a woman opened the door of the building, and asked me to come in, as it was so cold outside.

Then, I learned that the building was the Silla Royal Palace Film Room, and she was one of the staff there. She was very kind and lent me her umbrella and showed me how to go back to my homestay. You know, I was just a stranger and I might not have returned her only umbrella. Thus, it touched my heart to witness her trusting kindness. Moreover, when I arrived back at the homestay, and came in from the cold, my hosts took especially good care of me. I was still very cold, but my heart was so warm thanks to them.

Bulguksa Temple

I think one of the reasons Gyeongju people treat others so kindly and generously is their love of Buddha. Buddhism, which the Silla Kingdom adopted in the 6th century, helped strengthen the royal power and unite the people. The Buddhist religion also left a fascinating cultural heritage. One of the major historical sites in Gyeongju is the complex of Bulguksa Temple and Seokguram Grotto, which I visited on my second day in Gyeongju. In 1995, both became the first sites in Korea to be designated UNESCO World Cultural Heritage sites. Bulguksa temple itself symbolizes Bulguk (Land of Buddha), and is renowned for its artistic beauty.

Dabo-tap

Seokga-tap

All features within this temple represent the symbols and meanings of a Buddhist land. The ancient Dabotap pagoda and the elegant Seokgatap pagoda face each other in subtle harmony in front of Daeungjeon Hall.

The main gate of Seokguram Grotto

Another corner of Seokguram Grotto

Dabotap, which is made from freely trimmed stone, has subtle feminine characteristics. Seokgatap is the culmination of the sophisticated beauty realized by the standard of a stone pagoda in the Silla Dynasty. Nearby, connecting with Bulguksa by the circle route bus number 12, Seokguram Grotto houses a towering seated Buddha, and offers panoramic views of the sun rising over the East Sea. It was the embodiment of cultural and scientific accomplishment in the Silla Dynasty, and is still the largest stone cave temple in Korea.

It can be said that in Gyeongju, the spirit of Silla has been alive for nearly a thousand years. It can be felt in each temple, royal tomb, palace, old house, street corner, and in each Gyeongju citizen, which makes the city a truly golden city.

Bulguksa

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Seokguram Grotto

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At 10 AM on the bus from Seoul to Gyeongju, I received a message which asked me about my arrival time. It was Misun, my host in Gyeongju. I expected to arrive around 11 am, and because it was not the normal check-in time, I anxiously asked her if I could check in or leave my luggage earlier. However, she told me "빨리 오셔도 되요", which means "It is fine if you come early." Of course, she did not forget to repeat how to get there from Gyeongju Bus Terminal, and to ask me to call her if I got lost. While looking for an accommodation, I was glad to find her house, Suhocheong, a hanok homestay in downtown Gyeongju, on Airbnb. Although I booked it late at night, she quickly replied to confirm my reservation. To be honest, I felt that she promptly replied to all my messages about how to get there, the tourist attractions, and so on, in about 30 seconds each time.

Suhocheong is an L-shaped Hanok House

Actually, it was not difficult to find my way to Suhocheong from Gyeongju Express Bus Terminal with Naver Maps. (I really recommend you use Naver Maps to find walking routes when you travel in Korea since Google Maps cannot show you walking routes. The maps have been released with an English version, so don't worry). After around 15 minutes of walking from the bus terminal, I stood in front of an L-shaped hanok house with a small front courtyard.

The corridor when sunlight streams in

As soon as I arrived at the gate, a middle-aged woman came out from the house, cheerfully greeting me and showing me my room. She also rushed in first to turn on the heating and hot water systems. She was Misun, who texted me. She enthusiastically showed me how to make breakfast, how to use the coffee machine, and she also called her husband to help me with my itinerary around Gyeongju. Then, they enthusiastically asked everything about me, and if I needed anything more. Honestly, the way they welcomed me was like the way my parents welcome their long-lost daughter.

The facilities inside my room

A traditional-style set of drawers inside the guestroom

After saying goodbye to my friendly hosts, and heading back to my room, I took a look around the house. The traditional architecture of most countries make use of materials like wood, earth, and stone that are easily found in the surrounding natural environment. The Korean hanok in general, and Suhocheong in particular, was no exception. Wood was used for the pillars and floor, and clay was used for the floors and walls. Another unique feature of hanok is the use of hanji—traditional Korean paper that is made from the bark of the mulberry tree—on every flat surface inside the home, including the walls and doors. Actually, Suhocheong was a modified hanok, not a traditional one, so it has bathrooms and a kitchen inside.

hangari (clay pots) in the yard

However, it did not lose the beauty of a traditional hanok. Bringing the natural world inside, it allows its’ residents to coexist peacefully with the simplicity, beauty, and spirit of nature. The courtyard of the house was not a garden; rather it was intentionally left empty in order to house some kimchi jars, pine trees, and a pair of camping tables.

There were 6 rooms in Suhocheong: four guest rooms with private bathrooms, one kitchen, and the remaining one room used by the owners. Since they live there too, they always keep the house tidy and clean.

That night, it rained and became so cold that I had to stop my tour early and come back to Suhocheong. Seeing me come back in from the cold, Misun quickly helped me with my luggage, opened my room, and turned on the heating system again. After noticing my dinner was just a lunch box from a convenience store, she kindly offered me a cup of noodles and she even cooked it for me. Once more, I felt like she was my mother for the night.

In summary, during my two-day trip in Suhocheong, I was taken care of by an all-knowing father, who was always there when I needed to know how to go somewhere; and a thoughtful mother, who always asked to help me prepare water or coffee before I went out, and welcomed me when I came back home. All of this made me feel like I was right at home, even as a visitor in a foreign land