Sometimes it’s good to travel without a plan.

When I went to Busan, I didn’t know exactly what I intended to do. I knew that Haeundae Beach is very famous, and I knew that there are some nice parks and temples by the ocean, and I tentatively thought I might go see them. That’s what Busan is most known for after all, the ocean. At the same time, I had an interest in getting to know Busan as more than simply “the city next to the ocean.” I wanted to get to know the city itself.

How does one get to know a city? I wasn’t sure. The character of a city isn’t expressed through specific sights, it’s something that buzzes in the background and ties different areas together like a quilt. The character of a city isn’t shouted, it’s whispered. It’s tasted in the air and sensed in the bustling of crowds, absorbed through the lights and sounds of busy streets. It’s an abstraction, and abstractions can’t be captured in a direct or organized way.

Nampo Market before sunset

Nampo Market street food vendor

The first thing I knew when I arrived in Busan is that I wanted a bath at some point. My hotel room had a large tub that I expected to make use of, so I used my phone to search the location of the nearest Lush where I could buy a bath bomb. That’s how I ended up in the area known as Nampo Market.

I had never heard of Nampo Market before, but it turned out to be a shopping district with a similar feel to Myeong-dong Market in Seoul. It’s a busy series of streets crammed with retail outlets of all sorts and plenty of street food carts in between. Even though I’m not very into shopping, I tend to enjoy walking around these markets to bath in the electric atmosphere of the crowd.

While wandering I discovered some people in red coats working as tour guides. I approached them and asked if they spoke English. They did. I told them that I enjoyed photography and asked where some nice places for pictures might be in the area. They told me that Busan Tower was a short walk away, and also that at night there would be a Christmas festival in the market with lights and performances. I bought my bath bomb, had a nice dinner at an Indian restaurant, and went to the tower.

Busan Tower observation deck street view

Busan Tower is the counterpart to Namsan Tower in Seoul,
which I had incidentally just visited the day before.

The path to Busan tower was a short one, and the tower itself had fewer attractions than the one on Namsan, but the observation deck still offered a beautiful view of the city and the opportunity for a few great nighttime shots. After a short while, I decided to check out the Christmas festival.

The lights in Nampo Market were a beautiful sight that reminded me of my childhood. Christmas lights are much more common in America, and it was the first time in almost a decade that I could enjoy such a spectacular display. In the center of the market was a stage in front of an enormous tree of lights. Throughout the evening there was a performance by a girls’ choir who sang popular Christmas carols. After their performance, a marching band paraded down the street.

Nampo Market Christmas Festival parade

Nampo Market

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Busan Tower

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While enjoying the festival I met a group of foreigners who invited me to meet them near Seomyeon Station to enjoy Busan’s nightlife. After I went back to my room and enjoyed by bath, I met back up with them for a bit more exploring. The streets around Seomyeon are alive with crowds of people out on the town. The streets are narrow and intersect each other at odd angles, creating what feels like a never ending labyrinth of bars and restaurants. The area has a unique character, distinct from any of the party districts I’ve visited in Seoul.

Seomyeon Station pup (Three Monkeys if name can be published)

Seomyeon Station Pup grilled mushroom salad

First my friends took me to their favorite pub (called Three Monkeys if the name can be published), a cute establishment with its own unique flair. There was a large, life-sized chessboard in the center and I enjoyed a game while I waited for my food. As a vegetarian, there was only one item on their menu suitable to me, but the grilled mushroom salad I had was incredibly flavorful and adequately filling.

I chatted with a few strangers in the western style section and met someone who was enjoying a meal before attending a Salsa Dancing party. When I said that I was just in town for the one night and exploring the city, I was invited to come along. I’d never Salsa danced before and it seemed like an adventure.

I’ve never much enjoyed clubbing because I never felt like the experience was what I hoped it would be. Frankly, I actually do like to dance, and most modern dance clubs, it seems to me, are not really places for that. The Salsa Club was. There were about a hundred people in the small room, but there was plenty of space on the dance floor. It was a wonderful experience to see so many people moving and spinning in time with the latin-esque song selection. There were beginners and masters both, and I felt both welcomed with my inexperience and inspired to see the talent of some of the people for whom this was clearly a primary hobby. It’s an environment where strangers are almost expected to dance with each other, and I enjoyed meeting many people and receiving a few impromptu lessons.

People salsa dancing at a Salsa Dance Club

After the long night, I slept well and deeply in my comfortable hotel room. At checkout time I packed my things and walked the short distance to Busan Station where I caught the KTX back to Seoul and pondered my adventure.

Had I discovered the character of Busan? At least in part, I think yes. There’s so much more to Busan than the ocean. There’s an optimism that emanates from Busan. In contrast to Seoul, it feels a bit more laid back and relaxed. I think the lovely weather, still 15 degrees in December, might play a part in why the mood seems so bright. It is a lively city full of energy and people who enjoy life to the fullest. I’m not sure I would have discovered that if I had simply spent time at the ocean. Sometimes it’s good to travel without a plan.

Seomyeon

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When I decided it would be nice to spend an evening in Busan, I didn't plan my trip around a tourist destination as is normally the case when traveling. Most people probably decide to go to Busan first with the idea that they will visit Haeundae Beach for example, and then find a hotel that will facilitate those plans. I did the opposite. First I looked for a hotel that looked nice to stay in, and then figured out the best way to enjoy the city from that location. After a year of living in an exceptionally tiny apartment, I was craving comfort more than anything. I wanted to stay somewhere with a well decorated, spacious room with a soft bed and an array of amenities. After browsing my options and looking at pictures, the hotel I chose was Le Idea Hotel near Busan Station.

Le Idea Hotel exterior

Le Idea Hotel, bed and bedside washing area

I was not disappointed. Le Idea Hotel more than lives up to the promises it makes in the photographs posted to booking sites. The hotel understands that staying in a hotel can be an experience for its own sake, and not just a means to arrive at other experiences. The interior of the hotel has been designed with this understanding. Not only do the rooms feel like small personal palaces, but the hallways are given the same attention to detail. As you walk the corridors to your room you are embraced with the smell of scented oils and the soft sound of calming music. Even before you arrive at your room, Le Idea Hotel sends the message that this is a place of comfort and relaxation.

As for the rooms themselves, pictures may be worth more than words in this case. Suffice to say the spaciousness feels freeing without giving so much emptiness as to leave one feeling untethered. The bed and pillows strike a similarly perfect balance between being too soft and too firm. This is the goldilocks hotel and everything is just right. The interior design is both modern and elegant. The bathtub is deep and inviting.

Perhaps the most important thing is the lighting. Sadly, many hotels in Korea offer only harsh industrial lighting. My room at Le Idea Hotel had 5 separate lighting fixtures that could be independently controlled, none of which were the sort of bright overhead florescent lighting that I detest.

Le Idea Hotel, bathing rooms tub

All in all, Le Idea Hotel was exactly the sort of comfort-focused experience that I was hoping for, and at a fraction of the cost to what I would usually expect. Add to that, the remarkably convenient location of being right next to the train station, and I can’t imagine that I could recommend a better place to stay in Busan than Le Idea Hotel.