Bukchon is a neighborhood located near my residence,
so it is a place I visit frequently to have a cup of coffee or eat out with a friend.
However, it was never a place I thought to visit as a traveler.
Perhaps it was because of the notion I had that I must go to a distant place to travel.
But if I experience new things in an area which is quite different from where I live,
that must certainly count as an experience of traveling,
even if I do not take a plane or train to reach a faraway destination.

On a day when cold winds battered the city,
I found myself reaching the end of this long and cold winter, pondering about the plans of this coming year.
Social distancing has made even trips with friends somewhat of a challenge to plan,
so the thought came to me to have quiet time for myself in the familiar neighborhood of Bukchon.
Thus, I embarked on solo trip, my backpack filled with bare necessities and light clothes.


An itinerary to get the most out of Bukchon:

Bukchonmaru Hanok Guesthouse → Jeongdok Public Library → Seoul Education Museum
→ Bukchon Hanok Village → restaurant JEONDA → Café Low Roof → independent bookshop Bihwarim
→ Bukchonmaru Hanok Guesthouse

A rest at the Korea Quality-certified Bukchonmaru Hanok Guesthouse

The place I stayed in Bukchon is the Bukchonmaru Hanok Guesthouse, a Korea Quality-certified guesthouse.
From Anguk Station Exit 2, one can take the Jongno 01 Green Bus and get off at the ‘Wonseo Gogae’ Bus Stop right next to the guesthouse gate.
The building itself is a two-story hanok (traditional Korean house) building. The first floor of the building is occupied by the building owners,
while the second floor is rented out to the visitors.





The row of earthenware pots lined up next to the path leading to the second floor reminded me of my childhood visits to my relatives in the rural areas.
These earthenware pots contain gochujang (red chili paste), doenjang (soybean paste), and ganjang (soy sauce) made by the owner,
which the guesthouse uses to prepare breakfast for guests.
I opened the door to the second floor and found the traditional maru (a common wooden-floored hall) and the guestrooms.

My room was decorated with dainty traditional items that accentuated the Korean atmosphere one got in this elegant building.
The room had a higher ceiling than I expected, with the wallpapers of hanji (traditional Korean paper) patterns and
windows hemmed in with changhoji (a kind of hanji).
The bedding was neatly arranged on the ondol (underfloor heating system) floor,
hinting at the undoubtedly careful touch that must have gone into maintaining the room’s cleanliness.

Despite its traditional appearance, the room is fitted with various amenities and even an air-conditioning unit,
making it the perfect place to spend the night on my own. When I close the door,the noise fades away to silence.
The guesthouse location away from the busy traffic made my stay even more calm and peaceful.

The tranquil setting made it easier to savor the beautiful view of the garden and beyond from the second floor.
The view faced the Seoul City Hall and Jongno area to the front and the Inwangsan Mountain to the side.
The owner told me that the view is even better in the summer when the trees turn green with life.
I could not help but look forward to the still faraway season.

I plopped down in a sunny corner and let myself sink into my thoughts.
I felt worldly concerns melt away as I dedicated this time just to myself.
In the silence, I could pick up the songs of birds and the sound of the gentle breeze.
Spending time on my own within the warm embrace of this hanok, I felt a comfortable solitude.
After all, it is this exact solitude which I find to be an essential element of traveling alone.






If I had known about spaces like this in Bukchon, I would have frequented the area more often on my own.
The comfort of the hanok gave me space to take time alone for a full rest, even in a setting located not too far from my own home.


The sun was about to set. I wondered if I should visit a café I had wanted to visit, but decided against it. Instead, I chose to spend the rest of the day in the room. The best part of traveling alone is that you have the freedom to do whatever you want. You don’t have to discuss your decision with anyone or follow a specific plan. When I began to feel the chill from the cold wind, I retreated to the room and took out a book I had borrowed from the library. I snuck my feet into the warmth of the ondol floor  underneath the bedding and felt the chill slowly melt away to satisfaction. I read the sentences one by one, letting each one sink into my heart. This, for me, was a healing experience like no other. I was grateful for the opportunity to spend time alone in this wonderful gift of space.

INFO
Address: 152, Changdeokgung-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Check-in: 14:00
Checkout: 11:00

Places to visit in Bukcheon

1) Jeongdok Public Library
The Jeongdok Public Library is a beloved site in Bukchon, especially during the springtime.
It was opened at the former site of Kyunggi High School in January 1977 and is home to 500,000 books and 25,000 nonbook materials.
The library also offers various programs, making it one of the  most renowned libraries to visit and stay.

I visited this library to catch up on my much-overdue reading.
At Jeongdok Public Library, one can enjoy reading books not only in the reading rooms but also in benches outside the building.
One often finds their gaze drifting to the elegance of the Inwangsan Mountain looming majestically behind the building.
I thought this time of quiet reflection would cloud my mind with thoughts, but was surprised to find it actually cleared up.
This time spent in a good library with a good book by myself was a time of incomparable happiness.

INFO
Address: 48, Bukchon-ro 5-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Closed on: First and third Wednesdays of the month / National holidays except for Sundays (The library is closed if the holiday falls on a Sunday.)
Temporary closures: Designated temporarily based on circumstances

2) Seoul Education Museum

Located right in front of the Jeongdok Public Library, this museum specializes in education,
specifically the history of education in Korea, capturing the ambitious dreams of our parents’ generation.
It also hosts special exhibitions throughout the year. An example of such is the special exhibition “I  hope the life you chose is beautiful,”
which is dedicated to the 150th anniversary of the birth of Kim Ransa, an activist for women’s rights and independence of Korea.
It offers a meaningful trip through time as one follows how Kim Ransa pioneered her life through her own will
and brought her passion to Korea’s liberation from oppression. The exhibition is free for viewing, so be sure to stop by for a visit.


INFO
Address: 29, Bukchon-ro 11-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Operating Hours: Weekdays, 09:00–18:00 / Saturdays and Sundays, 09:00–17:00
Closed on: National holidays, first and third Wednesdays of the month
Fees: None

3) Bukchon Hanok Village


Bukchon Hanok Village is the most famous sight in the area.
It takes no more than 10 minutes from Anguk Station to reach the village.
Because most of the walking in the village  is uphill, it is a good idea to explore the area at a leisurely pace.

I walked along the hill, capturing the elegant scenes of hanok  with my camera.
I reached the end of the road, turned around, and found a simply breathtaking view.
The view from the hill brings together the view of the hanok and the city beyond,
all the way to the Namsan Seoul Tower standing in the distance.
This scenery also changes depending on the time of day.
I was delighted to find such a beautiful path from Jeongdok Public Library to
Seoul Education Museum and Bukchon Hanok Village, which is only about 1 km away from my accommodation. 


INFO
Photo zone location: 34-8, Bukchon-ro 11ga-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul

4) Independent Bookshop Bihwarim
Bihwarim is a space  perfect for indulging in comfort.
It is an independent bookshop full of independent publications situated with just enough room for two people to sit.
In my opinion, the most appealing aspect of this dainty bookshop was its location,
because it is located right in front of the Bukchonmaru Hanok Guesthouse.
I needed to take only five steps from the gate of the guesthouse to reach Bihwarim.
In this small but beautiful space, one can enjoy the “slow coffee,”
various hand drip coffees presumably named for its slow drip speed.
Bihwarim is the perfect place for those seeking solitude.  
Although the space feels small, the comfort one can attain from a warm cup of coffee
and cozy space is nothing short of exceptional. 

INFO
Address: 1st floor, 153, Changdeokgung-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Closed on: Mondays and Tuesdays
Operating Hours: Weekdays, 12:00–18:00 / Weekends, 11:00–19:00

1) JEONDA

JEONDA is a dream come true for solo travelers.
This restaurant, run by a mother and her two daughters,
sells home-cooked lunch boxes with a menu that changes each day.
When I visited the place, all but one table were filled by solo diners like me.
I especially loved the bar seats by the window, as that meant I did not have to occupy a large table by myself.
When I’m traveling alone, I’m often reluctant to enter a restaurant if it’s clear that I have to sit alone at a large table.
That’s why I am always on the lookout for restaurants that offer one-person meals and seats.

I placed my order and looked around the place.
One of the pillars there had a sign saying that they prepare the food as if they are preparing them for their own family.
I felt that the restaurant was full of warmth. Around five minutes later, I had my lunch box and soft bean curd jjigae.

The lunch box was packed with lovely side dishes like spicy stir-fried pork, cabbage, and fried egg.
I wrapped the rice and spicy stir-fried pork in cabbage and savored the flavor. The meat was tender and slightly sweet.
The spicy soup from the soft bean curd jjigae washed down any oiliness from the pork.
JEONDA is also renowned for its jeon, or batter-fried items.
While I was not able to taste the assorted jeon plate, I made up my mind to return with my loved ones.


INFO
Address: 24, Bukchon-ro 4-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Closed on: Saturdays and Sundays
Operating Hours: Weekdays, 11:30–21:00 (with break time during 15:00–17:00)

2) Café Low Roof

Café Low Roof combines the contemporary architecture of a four-story building with a traditional hanok.
It is a part of Hwigyeomjae, a hanok building, with guest seating available in the outdoor seating area
outside the main building or indoors in haengnangchae (“servants’ quarters” of hanok).
Hwigyeomjae, a house of the Han clan in Gahoe-dong, was built between the late Joseon period
and the early period of the Japanese Occupation and remodeled later in a combination of traditional architecture and modern functions.

The third and fourth floors of the contemporary building offer a beautiful view of Bukchon’s hanok.
The signature menu of Café Low Roof includes its financier cakes,
made with ingredients not often used for desserts, like the dried jujube fruit or sweet laver.

The view of Hwigyeomjae under the blue sky was simply stunning.
I found myself hoping for a warmer day so I could enjoy the charm of this place more thoroughly from the outdoor seats.
But I couldn’t complain. After all, it is not every day that one has the chance to enjoy the view of a cultural heritage site with a cup of coffee.

INFO
Address: 46-1, Bukchon-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Closed on: Mondays
Operating Hours: 11:00–20:00