02/20/2025
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Fried chicken can be enjoyed anytime, in any season.
Daegu’s Pyeonghwa Market has the “Pyeonghwa Market Dakttongjip Street” (Ayang-ro 9-gil, Dong-gu, Daegu, and the surrounding areas), which offers fried chicken, jjimdak (braised chicken), and dakttongjip twigim (deep-fried chicken gizzard).
Jeong Eun-jeong, a writer and a scholar of rural societies, describes fried chicken as a “food for celebrations” in her work The Korean Chicken Collection. Fried chicken is indeed one of the most popular dishes enjoyed at sports games, holidays, festivals, or events in Korea.
In 1960, a restaurant specializing in grilled chicken, ‘Wonjo Yeongyang Center,’ opened in Myeongdong, Seoul. This restaurant served whole grilled chicken cooked in an electric oven to retain its juices. It has maintained its loyal following under its new name, ‘Yeongyang Center Main Branch.’ The opening of Wonjo Yeongyang Center spurred the rapid growth of grilled chicken restaurants throughout Korea, with the dish reaching peak popularity in the mid-1960s.
In the 1970s, fried chicken rose to popularity. In 1971, Dongbang Yuryang (today SAJO HAEPYO) released its ‘Haepyo Cooking Oil,’ a soybean oil product, to the market. This marked the beginning of what was then called “tongdak twigim,” or the whole fried chicken. As the new cooking oil became popular, merchants began selling whole chickens deep-fried in oil. With the expansion of Korea’s poultry industry and government policies promoting the consumption of non-rice grains, wheat flour became widely available, allowing fried chicken to become ingrained in the collective consciousness of Koreans.
In 1977, the opening of 'Lim's Chicken' in the basement of the Shinsegae Department Store's flagship location marked the beginning of a significant shift in the Korean chicken market. While fried chicken in Korea had traditionally involved frying whole chickens in oil, Lims Chicken created a new trend of frying individual chicken pieces. In 1981, ‘Pelicana Chicken’ made another significant impact by popularizing seasoned fried chicken. Many view this moment as the true birth of the “Korean fried chicken” we know today.
The popularity of fried chicken in Korea peaked with the 2002 FIFA World Cup in Korea and Japan. Before the World Cup, the number of shops offering fried chicken in Korea hovered around 10,000. After the event, the number more than doubled to 25,000. While cooking oil initially brought the idea of fried chicken into the market, the 2002 FIFA World Cup played a key role in establishing Korea as a haven for fried chicken.
For many, fried chicken is divided into two categories: fried chicken and seasoned fried chicken. However, that’s not quite accurate. The true distinction in the world of fried chicken lies in the type of batter used (the batter for fried chicken often features a mixture of flour, starch, water, and salt): “Crispy” fried chicken, which has a thick batter, and “embo” fried chicken, which has a thinner coating. Most varieties of Korean fried chicken that we know today stem from these two types.
The former has a thick, crispy skin thanks to its thick batter, commonly used for seasoned or soy sauce seasoned fried chicken. The thick batter helps maintain the crispy texture when glazed with liquid sauces. Since it can be mixed with a variety of sauces, crispy fried chicken tends to follow trends quite closely. For instance, crispy fried chicken topped with cheese seasoning or pickled green onions has become very popular in the past. Some collaborative menu items combine fried chicken with seasonings inspired by popular snacks.
On the other hand, “embo” fried chicken is characterized by whole fried chicken. This style uses smaller chickens, often associated with samgyetang (ginseng chicken soup), lightly battered and deep-fried whole. One advantage of this style is its affordability, as smaller chickens are often less expensive. Some restaurants even offer two embo fried chickens for the price of one crispy fried chicken. The hallmark of embo fried chicken is the crispy texture of deep-fried chicken skin. After deep-frying, the chicken is cut into pieces and enjoyed with salt or sauce. That is why embo fried chicken is not tossed in seasoning, and seasoning is served on the side.
In Daegu, dakttongjip twigim is considered a unique variation of fried chicken. This dish uses gizzards, a part of chicken’s digestive system. This somewhat unfamiliar organ serves a role akin to teeth for birds. Since chickens are toothless, they swallow food whole, with food entering their digestive tract intact. The gizzard then grinds this food with the help of small stones or sand that the chickens ingest. As food passes through the digestive tract, these particles crush it, making it easier for nutrients to be absorbed.
Because of this, gizzards are full of muscles and have a uniquely springy and chewy texture. Chicken gizzards are cheaper than meat, making them a popular snack to pair with alcohol. Dakttongjip twigim are chicken gizzards deep-fried and tossed with seasoning, and the Pyeonghwa Market Dakttongjip Street, next to Daegu’s Pyeonghwa Market, has a collection of restaurants specializing in this dish.
The best beverage to have with fried chicken is, of course, beer. In particular, crisp American lager-style beers, widely produced in Korea, pair well with chicken. In Korea, this combination is popularly known as "chimaek" (a portmanteau of "chicken" and "maekju," the Korean word for beer). In Daegu, Duryu Park is the ideal place to enjoy this chimaek. Duryu Its spacious grass fields have long been a popular spot for picnics in Daegu.
A great majority of fried chicken franchises beloved across Korea trace their origin to the Daegu and Gyeongsangbuk-do areas. Brands like Mexican Chicken, Mexicana, and Cheogajip Chicken, which enjoyed great popularity in the 1970s and 1980s, are the best examples. Even today, brands like Kyochon Chicken, Ttang Ttang Chicken, Jong Kuk 2 Chicken, and Hosigi Double Chicken have taken their business from Daegu and the surrounding areas to reach the rest of the country, captivating customers with their unique recipes and fresh twists on classic fried chicken.
If you want to see the future of Korean fried chicken, head to Daegu. Even better—especially in the summer. Summer is when the Daegu Chimac Festival is held around Duryu Park. Daegu Chima Festival is one of the most popular festivals in this vibrant city. During the festival, fried chicken brands that have begun in Daegu come together to present an impressive selection of fried chicken at affordable prices. What’s more, you can also get ice-cold draft beer with them.