02/20/2025
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Gukbap (rice soup) can be enjoyed any time of the year, but spring is the best season to enjoy the fresh taste of the chives in it.
Busan is known as the “city of dwaejigukbap (pork and rice soup),” with many restaurants dedicated to it. Near Seomyeon Station, you’ll find "Seomyeon Local Food Street" (Seomyeon-ro 68beon-gil, Busanjin-gu, Busan, the alley next to Seomyeon Market), where many eateries specialize in dwaejigukbap.
Gukbap (rice soup), a unique dish and culinary genre in its own right, has long been beloved by Koreans. Historically, when Koreans needed a quick meal, they would turn to gukbap. Its simple preparation and satisfying nature are key reasons for their popularity—It’s essentially Korean fast food.
It was also popular among travelers. In the past, merchants and Confucian scholars traveling between their hometowns and the capital often stopped at inns to enjoy a bowl of gukbap. For those on long journeys, it was the perfect way to quickly and easily satisfy their hunger, rather than taking the time for a more elaborate meal. That might be why rice soup is still easily found throughout Korea today. With its wide appeal, straightforward preparation, and readily available ingredients, it’s no surprise it has remained a staple dish.
Gukbap soup is usually made by simmering beef or pork to create a broth, which is then combined with various ingredients and simmered again. Often, large batches are prepared in big pots to develop a deeper flavor. In restaurants, the broth is typically pre-cooked before or after hours, allowing it to be quickly reheated and served when ordered.
In the past, beef was the primary meat used in gukbap, as most households kept a cow or two, and alternatives were limited to chicken. Beef-based gukbap included dishes like someori gukbap (beef head meat and rice soup), kkori gomtang (oxtail soup), and seolleongtang (ox bone soup), which utilized less commonly used cuts or bones, as well as galbitang (short rib soup), made with meaty beef ribs.
After the 1970s, with industrialization, large-scale pig farms emerged across the country. This led to a significant increase in pork production, making it cheaper than beef. Pork exports also grew, and to support this, meat processing facilities began to appear in Busan and surrounding cities.
With these facilities in place, the people of Busan began selling dwaejigukbap made from the pork by-products. Around this time, dwaejigukbap began to be seen by Busan residents as both a form of “Korean fast food” and a type of “soul food.”
Today, the number of dwaejigukbap restaurants in Busan is double that of Chinese restaurants. According to a 2019 survey by Busan Ilbo, there are over 700 specialized dwaejigukbap restaurants in Busan.
Dwaejigukbap can be prepared in two distinct styles based on the cooking method: clear broth and rich broth. A clear broth is made by cooking pork in water alone, while a rich broth is achieved by cooking pork with bones. The meat-based broth has a clean taste, while the bone-based broth has a deep, savory flavor.
Dwaejigukbap is usually made with the pork picnic meat. However, some higher-end restaurants use pork neck (the meat from the area between the neck and shoulder) instead, which is fattier and more flavorful.
When you arrive at a dwaejigukbap restaurant, you might find the menu a bit complicated. On the menu, “offal only” refers to a dwaejigukbap with only pork offal, while “sundae only” means it comes with only sundae. “Mixed” means it comes with meat and offal or meat and sundae. If you'd like to sample a bit of everything, “assorted” is a good choice. Dwaejigukbap with just meat is deliciously savory, and adding offal gives it a chewy texture.
When ordering gukbap, you might often encounter the term “toryeom.” This traditional method involves gradually warming the dish by repeatedly pouring hot broth over cold rice and then draining it until it reaches an ideal temperature. It was also a way to keep the soup warm in the days before electric rice cookers were available.
When you order dwaejigukbap, it typically comes with kimchi, salted shrimp, and chives. Start by adding chives to the gukbap, then taste the broth with a spoon. Next, adjust the seasoning to your preference with chopped condiments, salted shrimp, or salt. Some restaurants also add noodles to the soup.
Dwaejigukbap offers countless variations depending on the type of broth, meat, and seasonings—no two bowls are exactly alike. It’s worth visiting various renowned dwaejigukbap spots in Busan to taste and enjoy the different styles available.
*Reference: Busan Ilbo's "Busan Dwaejigukbap Road"(porksoup.busan.com)