12/18/2024
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While it's great to enjoy a splendid musical in Seoul, why not experience a traditional Korean performing art with a long history in other regions? Anseong, Andong and Jindo, where the breath of UNESCO's Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity is alive, are places where you can experience the essence of traditional performances that vividly capture the lives, dreams and passions of our ancestors. Let's immerse ourselves in our beautiful traditional culture as if appreciating an epic poem.
Namsadang was a male-oriented traveling troupe that toured the country from the late Joseon Dynasty until the 1920s, performing a variety of dances, songs, and acrobatics. The Anseong market, where various goods and merchants gathered, was the perfect stage for them, and the common people enjoyed watching their energetic performances. The cultural value of Namsadang Nori (all-male vagabond clown’s theatrical performance), which spreads the ideals of equality and freedom through satire and humor from the lives of the lower classes, led to its inscription in the list of UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2009.
Currently, you can see Namsadang Nori through the regular performance of “Anseong Namsadang Nori (6 shows)” at the Anseong Namsadang Performance Hall. The performance is based on the story of Baudeogi, the legendary female “kkokdusoe”* of the Anseong Namsadang troupe. Recognized as the head of the male-dominated Namsadang at the tender age of 15, Baudeogi caught the attention of the royal court for her outstanding performance at the reconstruction site of Gyeongbokgung Palace in the late Joseon. At that time, Heungseon Daewongun (King Gojong’s father) invited all the country’s famous theatrical troupes to encourage the workers involved in the reconstruction, and he was so impressed by Baudeogi’s exceptional skills that he awarded her with a jade headband pin**, a symbol of high-ranking officials.
The performance consists of six acts: puppet play, traditional percussion performances, hoop spinning, ground acrobatics***, tightrope walking, and mask dance. Especially Baudeogi’s tightrope walk, performed on a 3-meter-high and 10-meter-long rope, is the highlight of the performance, drawing applause and enthusiasm from the audience. The audience is invited to join the stage and participate in the performance, adding to the vibrancy of the show. The witty banter of the performers is another charming element that makes the performance even more immersive.
*Kkokdusoe: the head of the Namsadang troupe
**Jade headband pin: A small ornament worn by Joseon aristocrats on their “manggeon,” a headband used for tying their hair.
*** Ground acrobatics: The art of walking or hopping on the ground
Trip to Anseong: Anseong Machum Land, a Craft-Themed Park
The Anseong Namsadang Performance Hall is located in Anseong Machum Land. The term “Anseong machum” originates from the region’s reputation for crafting high-quality bronzeware, known as “yugi.” Anseong has long been renowned for its exceptional skill in producing yugi and other crafts, including castings and knives. Over time, “Anseong machum” came to symbolize something that is crafted or prepared with perfect precision, exactly as intended.
In addition to the Namsadang Performance Hall, Anseong Machum Land has a wealth of cultural facilities. You can enjoy craft experiences at the Culture & Craft Center, observe the mysterious universe at the Astronomical Observatory, and learn about the life and works of the poet at the Park Dujin Literature Museum.
Andong is the heart of Confucian culture, with locals taking pride in their rich history and traditions. A prominent example is Hahoe Village, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that preserves the appearance of a Joseon-era village. The village has hosted esteemed world leaders, including Queen Elizabeth II, Queen Margrethe II of Denmark, and former U.S. President George Bush.
The Hahoe Byeolsingut Tallori (Mask Dance Drama of Hahoe), a treasured tradition of Hahoe Village, has been a part of the villagers’ life for approximately 800 years. This ritual, performed during the First Full Moon Festival or New Year’s Day, was originally an offering to “Seonangsin,” the village’s guardian deity, accompanied by a mask dance to entertain him. More than mere entertainment, the performance satirizes the aristocracy and vividly portrays the lives of common people, delivering inspiration transcending time. Its message of equality—that all individuals are equal regardless of status or rank—continues to resonate in modern times. In recognition of its significance, the performance was inscribed as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2022.
The Hahoe Byeolsingut Tallori is held year-round as a regular show at the Hahoe Village Mask Dance Theater. The performance consists of eight acts, including the Child Dancer and Lion Dance. In each act, actors wearing masks symbolizing the theme of the act take the stage. The harmony between the fixed expressions of the masks and the actors’ dynamic movements vividly captures the joys and sorrows of human life in a profound way.
Trip to Andong: Hahoe Village, the Roots of Hahoe Byeolsingut Tallori
The Hahoe Village Mask Dance Theater is located at the entrance of Hahoe Village, offering the perfect point for a leisurely stroll before or after the show. Wander through the quaint alleyways of Hahoe Village and try an overnight stay in a traditional hanok home, such as Jisan House or Bukchondaek House. Be sure to visit Buyongdae Cliff, a cliff that provides a panoramic view of the Nakdonggang River as it gracefully encircles the village.
Jindo, located at the southwestern tip of the Korean Peninsula, has a beautiful name meaning “island of treasures.” It would not be an exaggeration to say that Jindo’s traditional performing arts are its treasures. Jindo’s traditional performing arts, which have been designated as UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage, include the Circle Dance, Jindo Arirang, and Sopo Farmer's Music in Jindo, as well as National Intangible Heritages such as Jindo Purification Ritual, Farmers’ Song of Jeollanam-do, and Jindo Dasiraegi Play, and various Local Intangible Heritages such as Jindo Drum Performance, Jindo Funeral Song, Miscellaneous Songs of Jeollanam-do, and Jodo Datbae Song (fishermen’s song from Jodo).
The Jindo Saturday Folk Trip, a regular performance held at the Jindo Arts Center, offers a special stage that showcases its true value. The Jindo Municipal Folk Art Group performs traditional songs and dances of Jindo, such as Circle Dance, Jindo Purification Ritual, and Jindo Drum Performance, with themes that reflect the seasons. In addition, the troupe showcases percussion performances with media drums and a traditional vocal theater that reconstructs the birth of Jindo Arirang based on local folk tales. This diverse, genre-blending performance offers a rich variety of experiences for the audience. Since its debut in 1997, it has become a must-see attraction in Jindo, with over 1,000 performances held in 2024.
For those interested in traditional Korean performances, the Jindo Saturday Folk Trip offers a unique opportunity to immerse yourself in the cultural richness of the region beyond mere sightseeing. Traveling to Jindo is not easy, but it is now much more convenient thanks to the Jindodaegyo Bridge, which crosses the Myeongnyang Strait.
Trip to Jindo: Jindo National Gugak Center’s Another Masterpiece Performance
The Jindo National Gugak Center’s regular Saturday performance, “I Love Gugak!” is a free event where you can experience the charm of Jeollanam-do. Top performers present a variety of traditional Korean music (“Gugak”) stages, including instrumental ensembles, folk songs, and pansori. In addition to I Love Gugak!, the center hosts seasonal performances such as regular concerts, holiday specials, and a special Children's Day performance. To make it more accessible, a free shuttle bus runs between Jindo-eup and the center before and after performances, making it convenient for travelers without cars.