08/29/2024
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Daehak-ro is a historic neighborhood, home to educational institutions like Sungkyunkwan since the Joseon dynasty. Staying in a hanok with a courtyard feels like escaping the city and stepping back in time. Yet, as soon as you step outside, you're back in the bustling heart of Daehak-ro.
Located at the end of Hyehwa-ro, near Hyehwa-dong Rotary and the district of small theaters, Moggoji Hanok Guesthouse is a hidden gem. A magnolia tree greets you at the entrance, stretching its branches over the wall. Inside, two gates separate the owner's house from the guesthouse. Between them, two towering juniper trees pierce the sky, and in the guest house courtyard, a persimmon tree marks the changing seasons. The juniper trees were planted by the owner's grandfather for his sons’ brotherhood, while the persimmon tree was planted by the owner's mother for peace when she inherited the house. Even without the stories behind them, the trees create a dramatic and majestic atmosphere.
The true splendor of Moggoji Hanok Guesthouse lies in its beams. As you enter the daecheongmaru (main floor hall), thick beams overhead support the house, which has been lived in by four generations. Sitting on the daecheongmaru, overlooking the courtyard, you’ll quickly forget that you’re in 21st-century Seoul. Beyond the persimmon tree is an outdoor table, perfect for entertaining. The name 'Moggoji' means “feast” or “party” in Korean. On the wall near the table, you’ll find a Chinese poem by Tang dynasty poet Wang Ji Hwan, titled Deunggwanjangnu, written by artist Lee Wan. The poem, which encourages taking bold steps forward, is rendered in Lee Wan’s calligraphy that looks like a painting. Lee Wan is an artist who has exhibited both domestically and internationally.
Moggoji Hanok Guesthouse is an inviting place for foreigners to stay and enjoy. It offers four rooms—three with beds and en-suite bathrooms. The remaining room, located in the Munganchae (gate quarters), allows guests to experience traditional Korean ondol (heated floor) culture. Breakfast is light, with bread, coffee, and cereal, but for longer stays, the owner—a certified chef—cooks dishes like tteokguk (sliced rice cake soup). This hanok has become quite popular with foreign travelers. The owner lives next door and can immediately address any issues that arise.
Recommended Performance 1: Finding Mr. Destiny
Finding Mr. Destiny tells the story of 'The Man', the CEO of First Love Corporation, who helps clients find their first loves, and 'The Woman', a client who can't forget hers. The audience is drawn into the story, often reflecting on their own first loves as they watch. The play is also known for launching the careers of famous Hallyu actors like Kim Moo-yeol, Jin Seon-kyu, Kwak Sun-young, and Jeon Mi-do. The BRICKS Theater, where the play is performed, is a 20-minute walk (1.4km) from the guesthouse. Nearby, you’ll find Marronnier Park, the heart of Daehak-ro, and ARKO Arts Theatre.
Recommended Performance 2: Forte Pianissimo
Anton Chekhov's play The Seagull is well known to audiences worldwide. The title Forte Pianissimo is inspired by Anton Chekhov's remark that The Seagull “begins with a forte and ends with a pianissimo.” However, this adaptation reinvents the original setting into a modern club, introducing new characters to resonate more with contemporary audiences. The venue, Star Stage, is near Hyehwa Station, in the area with the highest concentration of theaters in Daehak-ro. You can enjoy the vibrant atmosphere of this theater district before and after the performance. The venue is a 17-minute walk (1.1 km) from the accommodation.
Sungkyunkwan, a national university dating back to the Goryeo and Joseon dynasties, still preserves its historic buildings and 400-year-old ginkgo trees. The proximity to such a historic site is a point of pride for Punggyeong Hanok Stay, located just a five-minute walk away and built in 1958. Despite its relatively recent construction, being adjacent to this historic university is a remarkable advantage. After breakfast, you can take a leisurely stroll through Sungkyunkwan, offering a truly unique and enriching experience.
Another reason foreign travelers enjoy staying here is the owner. Having worked abroad for many years, especially in Germany, where he spent around 30 years in international sales, the owner is fluent in English and can also communicate in German and Chinese. His love for engaging with different cultures makes him a welcoming host.
The walking trails created by the owner are also popular with guests. There’s a romantic trail that leads from Sungkyunkwan to Samcheongdong, Bukchon Hanok Village, and Changdeokgung Palace, as well as a nature trail that takes you to Hanyangdoseong (the Seoul City Wall), Dongdaemun, and Gwangjang Market. Of course, you can also relax and enjoy the tranquility of the hanok. Punggyeong Hanok Stay is a secluded, D-shaped house with a small courtyard. An acrylic canopy on the roof allows the courtyard to be used in all weather conditions, making it an ideal spot for gatherings and barbecues.
The four rooms, named after the four seasons (Chun-Ha-Chu-Dong, 春夏秋冬), are arranged around a courtyard. There are two single bedrooms, while the two ondol rooms share a connecting door. The “Ha” (summer) room, where the daecheongmaru once stood, overlooks the courtyard, which is filled with potted plants nurtured by the owners. Except in winter, the courtyard is always in bloom. With early check-in and late check-out, guests can enjoy almost 24 hours of relaxation.
Recommended Performance 1: Vincent Van Gogh
Vincent van Gogh, the Dutch post-impressionist painter, is beloved worldwide, and his close relationship with his brother Theo is as poignant as his artwork. The musical Vincent Van Gogh tells the story through Theo's memories as he prepares an exhibition of Van Gogh's works after his death. The production uses modern technology, including projection mapping of Van Gogh's paintings onto the stage, and the music is directed by singer Sunwoo Jung-a, renowned for her musicality. The theater is a 14-minute walk (750m) from the accommodation. You can walk along Sungkyunkwan University Entrance Crossroads and Daemyeong-gil to feel the vibrant energy of Daehak-ro.
Recommended Performance 2: Beautiful Life
Beautiful Life explores the meaning of love through the lives of an elderly couple. The play’s emotional impact is felt from the very start, as an ailing wife decides to divorce her husband for his benefit. However, the two actors also bring humor to the stage, skillfully portraying their younger selves and additional characters. The production won the Grand Prize in the theater/musical category at the 2019 Korean Wave Awards. The theater is a 22-minute walk (1.5km) from the accommodation. JTN Art Hall, a multiplex theater with four auditoriums, also features a café and a waiting room, making it worth arriving early to explore other productions.