A Walk through the Culture of the Ordinary People in Seochon: From “Yeopjeon Lunchbox” to Old Used Bookstores

With Gyeongbokgung Palace as the center, the east is called Bukchon, and the west is called Seochon. If Bukchon to the east of Gyeongbokgung Palace was an area lined with tile-roofed houses of high-ranking officials, Seochon to the west of Gyeongbokgung Palace was more for the ordinary people who enjoyed a relatively simple culture. This atmosphere continued through the Japanese colonial period and after liberation, and there are still places in the Seochon area where you can see the old culture of the ordinary people.

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Sejong Village Food Street: Fun to Choose and Eat As You Like

Everything is better on a full stomach, so before exploring the ordinary people's culture, perfect place to fill up on delicious food is at Sejong Village Food Street. Walk for approximately 20 meters from Exit 2 of Gyeongbokgung Station (Seoul Subway Line 3) and you will see a signboard reading “Sejong Village Food Street” and an alley with green lanterns. Originally called Geumcheongyo Market, the name changed in 2011, when Jongno-gu named the area “Sejong Village.” In fact, this is also the village where King Sejong was born. King Sejong the Great was born in a private residence west of Gyeongbokgung Palace when his father, Taejong, was still a prince.

Contrary to its name, Sejong Village Food Street is an alley where the culture of the ordinary people lives rather than the king or the upper class. Hot places newly opened by young store owners and long-established stores that have been in business for decades since the days of Geumcheongyo Market brought people in with their unique food. Thanks to this, once dead commercial district has regained its vitality. Now, there are restaurants not only in the main street but also on every alley, so it is fun to choose where to eat.

Boan Inn: an Old Accommodation and a Hideout for Writers

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If Sejong Village Food Street shows the food culture of the ordinary people, Boan Inn, which opened during the Japanese colonial period, displays the residential culture of the old ordinary people. The inn, which is said to have opened in the 1930s, was an accommodation for travelers and a hideout for writers. Seo Jeong-ju, a poet, stayed here in his early twenties and made Donginji with Kim Dong-ri, Oh Jang-hwan, and Kim Dal-jin at the inn.
Boan Inn, operated as an accommodation for ordinary people for over 80 years, has been reborn as an exhibition space while preserving its old appearance. You can feel the weight of time intact: the old signboards at the entrance, the small and shabby rooms, the creaky stairs, and the shared bathrooms with tiles fallen off. The exhibition, combined with this landscape, creates a unique atmosphere. You can freely visit the 1st and 2nd floors for free. The next building, “Boan 1942” connected by a bridge, is a complex cultural space, including a cafe, bookstore, and guest house.

Daeoh Bookstore: From A Cultural Space for the Ordinary People to A Retro Vibe Café

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Daeoh Bookstore is a used bookstore that opened in 1951. Back in the days when books were rare, used bookstores were cultural spaces where people could buy books they wanted to read at an affordable price. Daeoh Bookstore, which was a bookstore for over 60 years now operates as a cafe and cultural space while preserving its old appearance. The store was planned to close after the owner who first opened it passed away, but with the insistence of his wife some parts of the store can still be seen today.
When you open the old sliding door and enter, you will see a small counter with piles of books. You can also see photos of the bookstore in the past between the old books that fill the walls all around. The small room, living room, and the small yard with platform for crocks remain the same just like the photo. This kind of scenery matched the retro vibe that was in fashion, attracting many people. Daeoh Bookstore is also famous as the place where singer IU's album cover was shot and where BTS leader RM visited.

Tongin Hanyakguk: An Open Health Space with a Strong Scent of Herbal Medicine

Tongin Hanyakguk, located inside the alley across from Daeoh Bookstore, is a local herbal medicine store open to all local residents. Two professional herbalists worked together to open the store, and it became a specialty of Seochon within a few years. Now, anyone in the neighborhood can stop by and drink herbal tea, receive health counseling, and chat comfortably. Of course, visitors to Seochon are also welcome.

When entering the store through a small yard, you can see the oriental medicines filling the walls. There are some familiar ones, such as ginseng, licorice, peony, and Dong Quai, and there are also unfamiliar ones. You can receive a simple health consultation for free if you sit in the tea room that is also used as the counter, and drink Medicinal Herb Tea or Shiquan Dabu Whole Duck Soup. Full-fledged counseling takes place in the counseling room located in the basement after filling out a questionnaire.

The prescription principles of Tongin Hanyakguk can be summarized as “Ganibangnyak.” It means "the prescription is concise, the administration is easy, the price is good, and the procedure is simple but meticulous." It has the heart of a local herbal medicine store that was responsible for Korean ancestors' health in the days when there were no hospitals.

Tongin Market: A Traditional Market to Enjoy with Yeopjeon

Tongin Market is the oldest traditional market in Seochon and a place symbolizing the culture of the ordinary people. On weekends, customers from all over the country flock to enjoy the traditional market culture. Thanks to the 'Yeopjeon Lunchbox,' it gained national recognition. After buying a Yeopjeon package (10 for KRW 5,000) at the Dosirak Cafe on the market's second floor, you can walk around the market with a mini tray, buy food with Yeopjeon, and then come back to the Dosirak Cafe to enjoy it. If you buy common market food such as Tteokbokki and deep-fried dishes with Yeopjeon, you can experience the ordinary people's culture of Joseon and Korea all at once.

There are many famous restaurants within Tongin Market. In addition to Grandmother Jeong's Original Gireum Tteokbokki that even the U.S. Secretary of State who visited Korea tasted, there are other restaurants with unique flavors such as handmade gimbap with unchanging taste and Hyojadong Chicken Skewers, which will become your favorite chicken skewers once you taste them. In addition, there are many shops that sell memorabilia, so you might lose track of time while looking around.

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Nearby Restaurants and Cafes
Haejanggung Saramdeul Address: 50-1 Jahamun-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Inquiries: +82-2-736-6088
Main menu: Haejangguk (hangover soup) and Osorigamtu

Hyoja Bakery
Address: 54 Pirundae-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Inquiries: +82-2-736-7629
Main menu: Almond Jeonbyeong (Korean cracker with almond) and Hodu Tart (walnut tart)

Yeonggwang Tongdak
Address: 55-1 Pirundae-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Inquiries: +82-2-723-8200
Main menu: Yennal Tongdak (old-fashioned fried whole chicken) and Ttongjip Twigim (deep-fried chicken gizzards)

Sonkalguksu
Address: 55-3 Pirundae-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Inquiries: +82-2-736-1560
Main menu: Son Kalguksu (handmade noodle soup)

Yeonghwaru
Address: 65 Jahamun-ro 7-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Inquiries: +82-2-738-1218
Main menu: Ganjjajang (noodles in thick black bean sauce) and Tangsuyuk (deep-fried pork with sweet and sour sauce)

Grandmother Jeong's Original Gireum Tteokbokki
Address: 40 Jahamun-ro 11-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Inquiries: +82-2-735-7289
Main menu: Gochujang Tteokbokki and Ganjang Tteokbokki

Hyojadong Chicken Skewers
Address: 17 Jahamun-ro 15-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Inquiries: +82-10-6336-1490
Main menu: Buldak Kkochi (spicy chicken skewers) and Wine Cheese Dak Kkochi (wine cheese chicken skewers)

Sonmat Gimbap
Address: 20 Jahamun-ro 15-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Inquiries: +82-2-722-8389
Main menu: Cheese Gimbap and Chamchi Gimbap (tuna gimbap)

Daechungyuwonji Inwangsan
Address: 46 Pirundae-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Inquiries: +82-70-7807-5640
Main menu: Cafe Latte and Geobong Nokcha (geobong green tea)

Ma Chance
Address: 36 Jahamun-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Inquiries: +82-2-737-8537
Main menu: Cafe Latte and Ttalgi Milk Tea (strawberry milk tea)

* This column was last updated in May 2023, and therefore information may differ from what is presented here. We advise you to confirm details before visiting.
* Credit & inquiries: KTO Tourism Exhibition Hall Management Team