Time Travel in Seochon, Following the Steps of the King of Joseon

Gyeongbokgung Palace, 'the best palace in Joseon,' and neighboring Seochon still retain their old looks. Thanks to this, anyone can travel back in time to the Joseon dynasty. How about becoming the king of Joseon today? Try on Gollyongpo, eat special royal meals, and follow the procession of the king of Joseon to the Sajikdan Altar and Hwanghakjeong Archery Range.

Travel Course

Wearing Gollyongpo and Ikseongwan at a Hanbok rental shop

When the king of the Joseon dynasty woke up, the first thing to do was to adjust his attire.

The king of Joseon wore various garments depending on the situation. The most representative is Gollyongpo, worn for everyday work. It was a garment with a round cloth embroidered with a dragon pattern on the chest, back, and both shoulders. It was usually red, but sometimes a blue one was also worn. The daily work outfit of the king of Joseon was completed by wearing Ikseongwan (a hat with two wings rising like horns), Okdae (a belt decorated with jade), and Mokwa (leather shoes worn with official uniforms).

In the Sajik-ro area in front of Gyeongbokgung Station (Seoul Subway Line 3), Exit 4, hanbok rental shops offers various hanbok, including Gollyongpo. Number of hanbok varies by each shop with some shops not only having Gollyongpo, Ikseongwan, and Mokwa, but also Yungbok worn by the king during hunting or a procession to a royal tomb. It is also possible to rent a uniform worn by the queen and try hair styling tailored to it.

Greetings by Manjobaekgwan at the Geunjeongjeon Hall of Gyeongbokgung Palace

Now that you've put on Gollyongpo, head to the royal palace. The first destination is the Geunjeongjeon Hall, the main hall of Gyeongbokgung Palace. The Geunjeongjeon Hall was the place where important palace events were held. The morning assembly (courtiers' morning greetings to the king) was also held here. The morning assembly was divided into Jocham, in which most officials participated, and Sangcham, in which a few high-ranking officials participated. While Jocham, which was usually held four times a month, was held at the Geunjeongjeon Hall, Sangcham, which was held almost every day, was held at the Sajeongjeon Hall, the king's office. When Jocham was held, the officials who had entered the palace early in the morning stood at Pumgyeseok indicating their government post, bowed four times to the king, and received a royal order.

Standing on Woldae of the Geunjeongjeon Hall (a wide platform in front of important buildings), you can see the royal court lined with Pumgyeseok. The scenery the king saw during the Joseon dynasty must have been similar to this. One of the best ways to see the palace is to look around it from the king's point of view. Woldae of the Geunjeongjeon Hall is a perfect place to experience how the king saw the palace. Inside the Geunjeongjeon Hall, you can see the king's throne under the splendid Dancheong. Occasionally, special tours are allowed to enter the Geunjeongjeon Hall, and reservations can be made through the Gyeongbokgung Palace website.

Taste Special Dishes for Joseon Kings and Experience Saenggwabang at Gyeongbokgung Palace

After the morning assembly and with the Jogang (morning study) finished, the king had Sura (breakfast). The King's breakfast was prepared in Sojubang, the palace kitchen near the Geunjeongjeon Hall. Because many people stayed in the palace, there were several kitchens, and among them, Sojubang was the largest. It was divided into internal Sojubang, where meals were prepared for the king and queen; external Sojubang, where royal banquets were prepared; and Saenggwabang, where desserts and special meals were prepared. Saenggwabang was one of the six places in charge of housekeeping of the palace and was also called “Saengmulbang” and "Saenggeotbang.”

Sojubang, restored only in 2015 after being demolished by the Japanese, operates the “Saenggwabang Experience Program” in the first half (April to June) and the second half (September to November) of every year. Here, based on the contents of , you can taste the royal court snacks and royal medicinal tea that the kings of Joseon enjoyed. In addition to 'Guseonwangdogo,' a rice cake made with nine kinds of oriental medicinal herbs, royal court snacks such as Honey Cookie, Hodujeonggwa, and Fried Twist Cookies, and royal medicinal teas with unfamiliar names such as Ganggyedaeum, Samgyulda, Gamgukda, and Jehocha are also served. Specific menus and methods vary slightly from season to season, so please check out the Korea Cultural Heritage Foundation website for details. Reservation is required.

National Palace Museum of Korea: The Joseon Dynasty's Household Life at a Glance

You should visit the National Palace Museum of Korea located inside Gyeongbokgung Palace to take a proper look at the royal household life you experienced in Saenggwabang. Here, you can see relics the royal family used including the king's throne, the rubble of the palace roof, and Maehwateul, the king's exclusive toilet. The exhibition hall from B1 to the 2nd floor is full of relics related to the kings of Joseon, from King Taejo I Seong-gye's royal portrait and the royal vehicle of Joseon's last king Sunjong.

When you enter through the front door, you are actually on the second floor. The viewing route that starts here continues to the first floor and the first basement floor. Because the exhibition structure is relatively simple, you can walk randomly without worrying about missing important exhibits. You can grab an information pamphlet from the information desk on the second floor and start viewing from the “Royal Room of Joseon” right next door, then look around the seven exhibition halls in turn. Each exhibition room is full of relics showing the high level of Joseon royal culture, so it is recommended to take enough time to look around.

Sajikdan Altar: the Symbol of the Country Where the King Holds Ancestral Rites

The king of Joseon stayed inside the palace but sometimes went outside. The most representative procession was going to Jongmyo Shrine or Sajikdan Altar to hold ancestral rites. In the Confucian kingdom of Joseon, Jongmyo and Sajikdan Altar were the state itself. Jongmyo Shrine refers to the shrine where the spirits of successive kings are enshrined, and Sajikdan Altar refers to the Gods of land and grain. This is why the line "Your Highness, please preserve Jongmyo Shrine and Sajikdan Altar!" appears regularly in historical dramas.

Sajikdan Altar is a 20-minute walk from Gyeongbokgung Palace. Sajikdan Altar is an altar where sacrifices are held for State deities. Therefore, at the center of the Sajikdan Altar is an empty altar, not a building.

Passing through the main gate with the words “Sajikdan Altar” clearly written on it, Spiked Red Gates can be seen all around the low wall. There is another wall inside with Spiked Red Gates on all sides. There are total of eight Spiked Red Gates, with only one normally built in the royal tomb, you can see how sacred this place is. If you stand next to the altar wearing Gollyongpo, you will be able to understand the heart of the old king who bowed for the country and people.

Hwanghakjeong Archery Range: an Archery Range Built by Emperor Gojong

Archery was an essential education for Joseon scholars and a royal martial art. Early on, King Taejo I Seong-gye was so good at archery that he could hit the tip of an enemy commander's helmet from a distance. The kings who succeeded Taejo excelled in archery skills and enjoyed watching their courtiers' archery. Sometimes, they held a “Daesarye” of shooting arrows with their courtiers.

Hwanghakjeong Archery Range is a pavilion located on an archery range built by Emperor Gojong during the Korean Empire. The name “Hwanghakjeong” is derived from the fact that King Gojong, wearing the emperor's yellow Gollyongpo and shooting an arrow, resembled a golden crane. Originally, it was located inside Gyeonghuigung Palace, but it was moved to its current location when the Japanese Empire damaged Gyeonghuigung Palace during its occupation. After that, the Japanese Empire closed archery grounds across the country, but fortunately, Hwanghakjeong Archery Range survived and continues the legacy of traditional Korean archery. Currently, the Korean Archery Center in front of Hwanghakjeong Archery Range is for members only, but the general public can experience Korean archery every Friday (10:00-14:00) and the last Saturday of every month (10:00-12:00) at the archery experience range in the neighboring Korean Archery Exhibition Center. Both phone reservations and on-site applications are available for the Korean archery experience.

Travel Information

Public Transportation Information
[Subway] Start from Gyeongbokgung Station (Seoul Subway Line 3), Exit 4

Nearby Restaurants and Cafes

Tosokchon Samgyetang
Address: 5 Jahamun-ro 5-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Inquiries: +82-2-737-7444
Main menu: Samgyetang (Ginseng Chicken Soup and whole chicken)

Daebokjip
Address: 137-9 Sajik-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Inquiries: +82-2-736-8029
Main menu: Deungsim Gui (grilled sirloin) and Doenjang Jjigae (soybean paste soup)

Daraeguksu
Address: 12 Jahamun-ro 1-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Inquiries: +82-2-720-2029
Main menu: Myeolchi Guksu (noodles in anchovy broth) and Haemul Pajeon (seafood and green onion pancake)

Tonguidong Gukbingwan
Address: 17-4 Jahamun-ro 2-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Inquiries: +82-2-722-3833
Main menu: Hanu Galbi (Korean galbi) and Yukhoe (beef tartare)

BeeZza Ittaellibangatgan, Gyeongbokgung Palace Main Restaurant
Address: 113 Sajik-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Inquiries: +82-2-722-1832
Main menu: Pizza and Pasta

Naejattangkong
Address: 111 Sajik-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Inquiries: +82-2-730-7239
Main menu: Ttangkong Jeonbyeong (peanut buckwheat crepe) and Saenggang Jeonbyeong (ginger buckwheat crepe)

Noshi
Address: 3 Jahamun-ro 13-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Inquiries: +82-2-736-6262
Main menu: Traditional Tea and Patbingsu (shaved ice with red beans)

Polki
Address: 6 Sajik-ro 9-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Inquiries: +82-2-722-0855
Main menu: Americano and Vienna Coffee

Coffee Hanjan
Address: 16-1 Sajik-ro 9-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Inquiries: +82-2-722-7022
Main menu: Americano and Vienna Coffee

Tongin Coffee Gongbang Inspiration
Address: 101 Sajik-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Inquiries: +82-2-733-9808
Main menu: Americano and Maple Latte

* This column was last updated in May 2023, and therefore information may differ from what is presented here. We advise you to confirm details before visiting.
* Credit & inquiries: KTO Tourism Exhibition Hall Management Team