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Jeonju may be known around Korea for its excellent food, and
specifically its famous mixed rice dish of bibimbap, but the city also has an
illustrious past and has played its part in helping to shape the Korea we know
today.
Once described by a Busan native as “the countryside,”
Jeonju is
indeed located in a beautiful area of the country,
with four national parks
a short bus ride away.
History abounds here too, and Jeonju’s hanok village
is
the place to experience the traditions of old Korea,
learn about
Jeonju’s place in history and sip
tea in a traditional teahouse. |
 Birthplace of the Joseon
Dynasty |
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 If not for the defeat of the
Hubaekje (“later Baekje”) kingdom in AD 936, uniting the three later kingdoms
and unifying Korea under the Goryeo Dynasty, Jeonju might not have had its five
minutes of fame.
The former capital of Hubaekje was thrust back into the
national spotlight when King Taejo of Jeonju's Yi clan succeeded in overthrowing
the Goryeo Dynasty to establish the Joseon Dynasty (1392—1910)—a dynasty that
was conceived in Jeonju and would lead Korea for over five hundred
years. |
| Jeonju Hanok
Village |
|
 Jeonju has some beautiful and interesting places to go, and the peaks
that surround the city offer great hiking and views, but all tourists, Korean or
international, inevitably find their way to the hanok village. Built during the
1930s, it was a reaction to the expanding Japanese influence in the city and was
seen as both a source of national pride and a way to counteract the Japanese
architecture that was becoming prevalent, examples of which can still be seen in
the village. The village is located in the southeast of the city, and its
entrance is signaled by the magnificent Jeondong Cathedral. Made of foot stones
from nearby Pungnamun, one of the former gates to the city and a prominent
cultural asset in itself, the cathedral was established to uphold the spirit of
Catholic martyrs, and it is considered one of the most beautiful churches in
Korea.
 Next to the cathedral is
Gyeonggijeon, the complex that houses Gyeonggi Hall, which in turn houses the
portrait of King Taejo, founder of the Joseon Dynasty. The rest of the village
is filled with all kinds of wonderful hidden treasures that can be found only by
exploring the alleyways and courtyards. You may find a small workshop
hand-making hanji paper, or perhaps a tiny tea house. There are also plenty of
restaurants, as well as calligraphy and wine museums.
The village is
deceptively large, running from Jeondong Cathedral in the west to the Imokdae
Pavilion in the east. There are craft shops on Taejo-ro, the main street running
east to west, where you can participate in workshops for making all kinds of
things out of hanji and clay. Off in the recesses of the village are more
studios offering wood engraving, natural dyeing, embroidery, weaving, fan making
and more.
 The Korean Traditional Life
Experience Park is a place where people can go to experience a variety of
traditional aspects of Korean life, and it also doubles as a hanok hotel. For a
more modern sleep, the Jeonju Core Riviera Hotel, on the eastern fringe of the
village, offers a fantastic vista of the tiled rooftops of the village. The
beautiful buildings and myriad alleyways that provide places to eat, drink and
be entertained during the day transform at night to give off an air of
authenticity that is hard to see when cars and tourists are filling the narrow
roads. A wander around the village at sunrise or sunset, when the residents of
the village emerge and most of the tourists have left, is a must. |
| Land of the
Bibimbap |
|
 Jeonju is perhaps best known around Korea for its food. The fertile
Honam Plain and the clear waters of the region are said to be contributing
factors in the city's nationwide food fame. Bibimbap is the city's signature
dish, and it can be found everywhere.
There are, however, a few restaurants
that have excelled in its production. Gogung, located near the lily-laden
Deokjin Park, specializes in both bibimbap and goldongban, the food of the kings
of the Joseon period. There is also a bibimbap museum on the second floor, which
traces the history and regional varieties of this deceptively simple and
delicious dish.
 Nearer the hanok village,
Gajok Hoegwan is another famous place to eat bibimbap in Jeonju. There are also
plenty of traditional teahouses in the city, with most concentrated in or around
the hanok village. One of the nicer ones for escaping the busy streets is
Punggyeong, a small place located directly opposite the entrance to Gyeonggijeon
on the second floor. A window seat offers you the chance to observe the throng
of tourists and locals who pass through everyday. The green plum tea here is
especially refreshing. If you prefer a glass of wine, then head toward Bom, a
converted hanok that sells a selection of drinks and small snacks with an
attached gallery that houses small exhibitions. |
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Getting There
Jeonju is a major transportation
hub, so getting there doesn’t present much of a problem. The quickest way is to
take the KTX from Seoul’s Yongsan Station to Iksan, and transfer to another
train to Jeonju. The trip takes about 2 hours, 30 minutes in total. There are
cheaper trains that go directly to Jeonju from Yongsan, but they’re much slower
and they tend to fill up on the weekends.
More Information
Guided tours of the village
are available from the Hanok Village tourist information office. Reservations
can be made by phone at (063) 282-1330.
• Gogung | www.gogung.com (Korean, English) | (063) 251-3211
• Gajok Hoegwan | www.jeonjubibimbap.com (Korean) | (063) 284-0982
• Korean
Traditional Life Experience Park | www.jjhanok.com
(Korean, English)
|
(063) 287-6300
•
Jeonju Core Riviera Hotel | (063) 232-7000
• Punggyeong (Korean traditional
teahouse) | (063) 283-2371
• Bom (hanok wine bar / café) | (063)
284-3737
The people of Jeonju take three main
breaks from eating bibimbap each year. These are as
follows:
• Jeonju International Film Festival—this
festival has been up and running
for eleven years now, and is back for an
twelvth time from Apr. 28 - May 6, 2011. A perfect excuse to combine a week of
good films with a spring break in stunning Jeolla-do province.
•
Jeonju Hanji Culture Festival—organized to promote the unique qualities of
Korea’s traditional paper, hanji, the festival offers a fascinating range of
exhibitions and hands-on opportunities.
Due to take place in early May,
2011. |
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| Written and photographed by Rob McGovern |
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