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For such a quaint little seaside town, the heralded sea-parting
event certainly attracts its fair share of visitors every year.
An impressive feat given the area’s relatively out-of-the-way location
to many of the country’s more touted tourism highlights. Yet every
spring, thousands flock to the shores of Jindo to walk the mysterious
route that stretches roughly three kilometers from Hoedong to the
distant island of Modo. Materializing from the rise and fall of
the tides, the divide can reach as wide as forty meters and beckons
visitors, who stop along the way to pick up fresh seaweed or snap
photos, to walk its sandy ocean bottom.
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Of particular interest to festival-goers are the many traditional
celebrations that take place, including Jindo Ssitgimgut (a shamanistic
ritual believed to purify the soul), Jindo Dasiraegi (a performance
consoling those who have lost family members), Jindo Bungnori (traditional
ancient rhythms played with two sticks), and Sopogeolgun Nongak
(an upbeat form of farmer’s music sung by soldiers who scouted
enemy camps during the Imjin War). Performed at either one of the
two stages flanking the statue of Old Lady Pong, the main entry
passage to the sea-parting event, they are truly worth watching
and a definite highlight to the overall experience. The larger of
the two is Hoedong Stage and the other is Gagye Stage. Both feature
the festival’s main performances and take place shortly before
and after the crossing of the sea. Several other smaller forms of
cultural entertainment that take place along the boardwalk bordering
Hoedong’s coastline are also on hand and quite enjoyable.
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Many onlookers can even be seen participating in the various
rituals that arguably bridge social barriers and seem to warmly
welcome all to have a truly memorable experience. At the time of
this writer’s visit, everyone appeared to be a member of the community,
laughing and cavorting about – exactly as one should when breaking
away from the arduous routines of city life.
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Several decades ago, the much-celebrated event swept far beyond
Korea’s borders and gained considerable international appeal when
French Ambassador, Pierre Rendi, wrote about it in a French newspaper
at the time of his Jindo tour in 1975. He spoke so highly of the
phenomena, praising it as ‘a modern version of the miracle of Moses’,
that the seasonal celebration continues to pull many from every
corner of the globe. In 1996, Japanese pop sensation, Tendo Yoshimi,
even penned a song titled ‘A Story of Jindo’ about the enigmatic
ocean passage, sparking renewed interested from abroad and continues
to bring hordes of Japanese tourists every year.
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Jindo remains a coastal haven, a gorgeous traditional hideaway
inviting all with open arms to soak in the warm hospitality, colorful
ceremonies and, of course, the parting of the sea – an occasion
that gives the town its long standing appeal. For several days in
early May, the miracle can best be witnessed between five and six
o’clock.
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◑Jindo’s Fabled Origins Are Rife With Struggle
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The fabled origins of Jindo’s ‘Moses Miracle’ speak of considerable
suffering. It is said that many years ago, a criminal, who was exiled
to the island of Jeju, wound up getting shipwrecked during a fierce
storm on what is presently known as Hoedong Village. After settling
nicely in the village, he soon decided to flee with the rest of
the villagers to a nearby island as tigers were frequently invading
the area and taking many lives in the process. However, after the
escape, one elderly woman remained. Referred to as Old Lady Pong,
she hadn’t been as fortunate as the others. Wishing to be with
her family but unable to swim across the divide, she prayed continually
to the Sea King everyday.
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Over time, the Sea King answered her prayers and granted Old
Lady Pong her wish. When the sea eventually parted, many came from
the distant island of Modo, playing gongs in search of the elderly
lady. Yet, the strife and heartache had taken its toll on the woman
and she soon died of exhaustion. Before passing away, she whispered
feebly, “my prayers have been answered… the sea route has opened
so I could see you now. Now that my wish has been granted, I can
now die in peace.” The area’s original name of Hodong was later
changed to Hoedong, meaning the ‘Village of Return’, to commemorate
the inspiring story of Old Lady Pong.
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◑What To Bring Back
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The southern province of Jeollanam-do is most notable for its
abundantly rich and fertile soils. A visit south would not be complete
without either sampling or bringing home several goods that are
both healthy and arguably the tastiest in the country.
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A common sight along the shoreline is the long string of locals
picking fresh seaweed. Known as Jindo wild brown seaweed, it is
said to have been presented to ancient kings because of its extraordinary
taste and enormous health benefits. Black Rice is another delicacy
native to the area. Receiving a tremendous of exposure from the
sun, the rice is heralded for its effect in removing cancer cells
and curing stomach ulcers. Grown in soils that are rich in organic
matter, the famous black rice remarkably contains up to four times
the amount of vitamin B and F found in ordinary rice.
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Also worth bringing back is Jindo hongju. The traditional liquor
is praised by wine lovers for its pleasant taste and for the fact
that it doesn’t cause hangovers because it includes the herbal
medicinal ingredient, jicho. Another herbal medicinal agent found
in both tea and liquor is gugija. According to donguibogam, an old
book about traditional Korean medicine, it has the effect of protecting
the body from ageing-related diseases and improves immunity.
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Undoubtedly, Korea’s most picturesque locations are often the
peninsula’s best-kept secrets. Granted Jindo hasn’t exactly stayed
below the radar, but it has retained a sense of purity that is often
lost or overlooked at more commercialized travel destinations. As
no great journey comes without a little trekking and healthy dose
of adventure, Jindo remains no exception. Supremely rich in not
only hospitality, but also its sheer abundance of all things healthy
and natural, this coastal gem is one destination worthy of a visit
and a great place to keep returning to.
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Getting There
There is a direct bus to Jindo from Seoul.
Despite the long journey, it remains the most ideal method of transportation,
as the scenery is quite beautiful. Take subway Line 3 to Express
Bus Terminal and proceed to Central City, the new wing of the station.
There are several buses leaving daily. Be forewarned that given
the distance, it is best to leave early in the morning to get there
in decent time. Once arriving at Jindo Bus Terminal, there is a
local bus that leaves every hour to Hoedong Port.
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Those with time constraints; the other option is taking the KTX
to Mokpo and then taking a bus to Jindo. Take Line 1 or 4 to Seoul
Station and proceed to the KTX terminal. Once in Mokpo, take a bus
to Jindo Bus Terminal. From there, take the local bus to Hoedong
Port.
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Travel Tips
As the annual event brings many people to
the coast, it’s best to book ahead when staying in Jindo. Although
the island is not very large, there are several cozy places to stay
and many great restaurants serving fresh seafood. For a list of
lodgings, be sure to visit Jindo’s official website http://tour.jindo.go.kr
for further details. You may also telephone the Department of Culture
and Tourism and speak with an English representative. The number
is: (061) 540-3254. Or call the Korea Travel Phone at 02-1330. In
the event that everything is booked, an alternative would be to
stay in the nearby city of Mokpo. There are plenty of accommodations
and restaurants there. You can also catch the KTX from there. Mokpo
is less than three hours away from Seoul by KTX.
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Written and photographed by Gregory Curley
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