Throne Hall viewed through Main Gate

Gyeongbokgung Palace is a majestic site on any occasion. The contrast of its enormous and opulent buildings to the minimalist natural surroundings always takes my breath away. Especially surrounded by crowds of people wearing traditional Korean clothing, it's easy to momentarily get lost in time and feel a proximity to a cultural history that you had never known before. This is true at all times of day, but the experience soars to new heights at night.

Side Gate frontal view

During a nighttime opening, Gyeongbokgung Palace is nothing less than magical.

Musicians play traditional Korean instruments in a performance of pansori (traditional music) that is indescribable with words. The sounds of ancient melodies follow you throughout the grounds as the lantern light dances on the pond like fairies. The soft natural lighting and the melodic sounds of flutes and harps combine to dispel any last illusion of existing in the modern era. Even alone it's a profoundly romantic experience that truly leaves one feeling like Korean nobility of old.

Side Gate side view

Main Gate

There's little to say in conclusion about Insa-dong and Gyeongbokgung Palace. My last words are only to say that these locations have been my favorite places to visit for the entirety of my residency in this country. There's a reason for that. Any visitor to Korea should make sure not to miss them.

Royal Banquet Hall at night

Gyeongbokgung Palace

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Insa-dong Alleyway: daytime

It's hard to think of tourism in Korea without thinking of Gyeongbokgung Palace and the quaint neighborhood of Insa-dong. Seven years ago when I first arrived in Korea on a teaching visa, knowing absolutely nothing about the history or heritage of my new country of residence, Gyeongbokgung Palace was the first landmark that I heard about. It was everywhere: in travel pamphlets, in language textbooks, in casual conversation with strangers and new acquaintances.

It quickly took on a sense of cultural archetypicality in my mind, the impression that Gyeongbokgung Palace is to Korea what the Eiffel Tower is to France and what the Pyramids are to Egypt. The cultural experience of Gyeongbokgung extends well beyond the palace walls however.

Insa-dong Alleyway: nighttime

While this trip to stay in the guesthouse of Hanok 24 marked my fourth visit to the palace itself, it also returned me to a neighborhood that I have spent countless afternoons in. The streets of Insa-dong offer a starkly unique atmosphere to the rest of Seoul, and it is very possibly my favorite environment that the city has to offer. The area around Gyeongbokgung Palace presents a delightful urban aesthetic that blends traditional and modern elements of Korean architecture into beautifully winding labyrinth of sights and smells. The shopping here is of a somewhat different nature than the standard commercial fare one finds elsewhere. Many shops offer artisanal and handmade cultural products such as traditional clothing, earthenware, jewelry, cutlery, and artwork. The cafes and restaurants mixed throughout also focus on the traditional foods and beverages of an older era.

After checking into the Hanok 24 guesthouse I chose to wonder these streets for a few hours. It's an exceptionally peaceful area just to be in, without any destination or purpose necessary. It's a perfect area to simply wander. I walked by the palace and took some beautiful pictures of the wall and gate as the sun was setting, but I continued to wander through the streets until nightfall. The frequency is irregular, and advance booking is required, but the best way to experience Gyeongbokgung Palace in my opinion is during one of the occasional nighttime openings.

Insa-dong

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View of yard from inside the room

Hanok 24 is one of the nicest guesthouses I've ever stayed at. I'll be honest that sleeping in a hanok has never been my favorite type of Korean cultural experience. Instead of a bed you sleep on a pad on the floor, and in many cases there are no chairs either. That's all an intentional part of the experience, because the point in staying in these guesthouses is to get a feeling for a traditional Korean lifestyle. It can be a little uncomfortable, but in exchange these guesthouses try to offer a quiet atmosphere and quaint aesthetic that is unlike anything most people have every experienced.

Hanok 24 however manages to set itself apart from other hanok guesthouses by maintaining its quintessential cultural setting while also providing a few modern comforts.

Path between different rooms

Bedroom upon arrival

You do still sleep on a floor pad, but the shared common area contains a two-person sofa as well as a kitchen table with four regular chairs. It does this without sacrificing the ability to have a traditional Korean meal seated on the floor, as a separate area in the middle is arranged for this purpose as well for those that prefer it. What's most remarkable to me however is not that Hanok 24 provides some modern convenience, but that the traditional mood and aesthetic is uninterrupted by them.

So many small elements come together to create a truly delightful atmosphere in Hanok 24. The elements are so subtle that it can be difficult to describe them individually, though the effect they produce is unmistakable. The interior and exterior design of Hanok 24 is best described as 'minimalist, yet warm'. This feeling seeps out of the hardwood-and-plaster construction, the stepping-stone paths through small yards of pebble, the narrow trench-gardens, and the traditional earthenware dishes in the kitchen.

Shared living area

Traditional table setting

My satisfaction with Hanok 24 didn't stop at enjoying the lovely atmosphere either. Despite feeling like a quiet and hidden secret, it's actually just on the edge of a very busy commercial district. Within a 5-minute walk of the guesthouse are countless cafes, restaurants, historical sites, and storefronts featuring artisanal cultural products. The hanok was equipped with a number of guides and brochures to help you navigate and plan your stay in this active and dynamic part of Seoul. The woman who runs the guesthouse was also very friendly and spoke excellent English and is more than happy to give advice or answer questions about the area.

I said at the beginning that I do not usually enjoy staying in a hanok, and I have done so several times. I did enjoy my stay in Hanok 24 immensely however. I cannot recommend it more highly.